A fragrance can transcend the ordinary, trigger a core memory and serve as a subconscious marker that people associate with you over time. The process of discovering your signature scent, however, is one fraught with complicated jargon on notes, scent profiles and fragrance compositions that can be overwhelming to many. Begin the search with a simple question: who do you want to be every time you apply your perfume? Once you figure that out, here is a step-by-step guide to take you closer to the scent that is best suited for you…
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Know your perfume notes
While each fragrance is crafted differently, perfumes are generally governed by top notes (the initial scent that drifts around for 15 minutes), the middle, or heart, notes (the life of the fragrance that lingers for an hour) and the base notes (the longest-lasting scent that serves as the foundation of the fragrance). Observe all three notes over time to truly unravel a scent’s potential and give you an idea of how it will smell on you over a period of a few hours. Spritz your fragrance on your wrist and neck and get a feel of the first impression to discover the top notes. While many make their decision based on this top note alone, we recommend that you walk around for 15-20 minutes to discover the next set of notes. If you find these heart notes appealing, it is likely that the base notes, which shall surface an hour or so after application, shall also be pleasing to your olfactory senses.
Understand fragrance families
The fragrance family is your first cue on the mood that a perfume can evoke when applied. Types of perfume are usually classified into four broad categories – Fresh, Floral, Amber and Woody. Top notes usually comprise fresh or floral notes. Fresh fragrances comprising citrus, aqua and green notes are particularly appealing in warmer weather. A quick spritz of a floral women’s perfume can leave you feeling light and cheerful. As for fruity notes, they range from the musky scent of blackberries to sweet, juicy notes of apples. Musky, woody fragrances make up the base notes that leave a rich, lasting impression, and serve as some of the best men’s perfumes. Today, however, these gendered divisions are a thing of the past. If you are looking for a boost of confidence, something hailing from an aromatic family, such as amber or musk, can get the job done.
Concentrate on your concentration
The general reflex when choosing the right perfume might be ‘the longer, the better’, but understanding the types of perfume you are opting for will guide how you wear it. The concentration of perfume oil in your fragrance affects both the price and the longevity of your scent. Esprit de Parfum, with a 15-30% concentration of perfume oil, requires no more than a small squirt to swirl around you for the whole day, while eau de Parfum, with 10-20% perfume oil concentration, may be suitable for a night out. Eau de Toilette is a lighter concentration of perfume oil (about 5-15%) that will need to be topped up every few hours, and eau de Cologne, with 3-8% perfume oil, will serve you for a couple of hours at best. At the bottom of the pyramid, you will find water-based based perfume mists and eau de Fraiche that are sans alcohol, have very low concentrations of perfume oil, and can be used for light and frequent refreshes. Choose your fragrance concentration based on how long you want it to serve you.
It's all about chemistry
Ever wondered why the same perfume can smell vastly different on different people? The answer lies in your body chemistry. Your diet, skin pH levels and skin type – all make up your body chemistry which in turn affects how your body interacts with a fragrance. Even your hormone levels and basal body temperature influence the effect of a fragrance. When it comes to your skin composition, oiler skin results in longer lasting and more potent smelling fragrance while dry skin absorbs and evaporates fragrance faster. Therefore, those with oily skin should opt for milder, lighter scents while those with dry skin can go for bolder ones. The pH balance of your skin also affects how oily or dry it is. Alkaline skin tends to be drier while acidic skin is oilier. The better balanced your skin’s pH levels, with the ideal being 5.5, the better a perfume will remain true to its original scent on your skin. Maintaining a healthy diet and lifestyle, using sunscreen for protection from harmful UV rays, and a dedicated skincare routine wherein you keep your skin well hydrated – all these help in restoring your skin’s pH balance. Your basal body temperature is also a determining factor when it comes to which perfume you should go for. The warmer your skin tends to be, the more concentrated a scent would be on your skin. It is for this reason that perfumes are recommended to be applied in the nape of the neck, wrists and behind the ears. These are our body’s natural hot spots and applying fragrance to these areas makes it last longer.
Sample everything
It is handy to do your homework, but research can only take you so far. Before attaching your affinity to a trendy new scent that everyone loves right now, it helps to do the rounds of the store and sample a little bit of everything. Pay attention to how the scent evolves throughout the day and how it makes you feel.
Sniff before you spray
If you aren’t sure where to begin your olfactory journey, start by holding a paper blotter a few inches from your nose. On a deep inhale, allow the notes of the fragrance to reach your senses. Once you have narrowed down your list, spray once or twice on your wrist. After allowing 30 seconds for the scent to settle in, bring your hand to your nose—without directly touching it—to experience the fragrance.
Consider the classics scents
Trends may come and go, but the classics remain so for a reason. Chanel No 5 has been leaving a sensual trail through the decades—bolstered by Marilyn Monroe’s confession that all she wore to bed was a few drops of Chanel No 5—while J’adore by Dior offers up a floral bouquet within its hourglass-shaped vial that has universal appeal.
