Here’s an interesting fact - the global anti-ageing skincare market is poised to expand from 63 billion dollars in 2022 to 107 billion dollars in 2030. This stat alone explains the proliferation of interest in this space. In the past few years, ingredients like retinol, bakuchiol, collagen, and kojic acid have made their way into the skincare regimes of those in their late 20s and beyond, whether they’re looking to prevent ageing skin or approach pro-ageing skincare thoughtfully. Given increased awareness of the significance of both at-home and in-office skincare, a slew of in-office skincare treatments has also witnessed traffic in the past few years.
In a chat with Dr Madhuri Agarwal, dermatologist and founder & Medical Director of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, we asked her to decode the augmented growth of preventative anti-ageing skincare rituals.
Can you break down the concept of anti-ageing for us?
Dr Agarwal: Ageing is a natural bodily phenomenon that affects the skin, too. In Indian skin types, ageing starts with coarseness, hyperpigmentation, an increase in pores and eventually wrinkles and sagging. Skin concerns that fall under the anti-ageing bracket are fine lines, wrinkles, sagging of the face, loose skin, dull or dark skin, folds around the nose and corners of the mouth, necklines, drooping eyelids, and more. Anti-ageing for us is being preventive at an early age and corrective in the later stages. Ingredients and treatments should focus on minimising and repairing sun damage as it is one of the key reasons for our skin ageing early (in a phenomenon called photo-ageing). Building up collagen and elastin (the main framework of skin), improving turnover of skin cells, and functioning and protecting skin cell DNA should be other target areas.
How, in your opinion, has the approach towards ageing evolved in the past few years?
Dr Agarwal: I see a tremendous shift in the approach towards ageing. Consumers are more discerning and demanding in current times with respect to anti-ageing. A decade ago, the concept of ageing skin was not spoken about in India as much; people would buy a cold cream/fairness cream and use it as a multipurpose cream for all skin issues, including tackling signs of ageing. Nowadays, the options available have increased multifold; there are a host of new treatments such as peels, a variety of lasers, energy devices, thread lifts, etc. Younger patients are approaching dermatologists for treatments such as toxins, dermal fillers and lasers without any qualms, and they are eager to do procedures like their favourite celebrities and achieve a youthful look. Women of all ages, enabled by the rising disposable income and economic empowerment, have embraced new anti-ageing treatments with open arms and seek them without any inhibitions. Greatly, men are equally resorting to anti-ageing products and treatments to up their game.
Could you please name a few anti-ageing in-clinic treatments that are popular?
Dr Agarwal:
- Toxin works by relaxing the muscles that become more contracted with age. It is injected in muscles which are hyper-contracted, like frown lines, crows feet or masseter muscle. The effect is seen in 7-10 days and lasts for 4-6 months.
- Dermal fillers are a quick and simple treatment that provides instant sculpted results with a minimal amount of discomfort and downtime. They come as prefilled syringes commonly made of hyaluronic acid, are administered via tiny injections, and the results are visible instantly. The natural soft tissue gel made of hyaluronic acid is completely safe and actually encourages the skin to produce more collagen (bio-stimulator) to restore a youthful, contoured appearance. Dermal fillers can last anywhere between 6-18 months.
- Thread lifts are non-surgical double-needle threads that are revolutionary as they give a contoured, sculpted facelift without surgery. A certified dermatologist will place the threads under the skin with no incisions or cuts, which will act like an umbrella to lift up the lax, sagging skin. The threads help to contour the jawline and cheeks at a younger age and reposition sagging skin at an older age. It is a single-session procedure where, depending on the person, concern and clinical requirements, multiple threads are placed under the skin and the results last between 12-18 months.
- High-intensity focussed ultrasound (HiFU) is a treatment for skin tightening and lifting with precision and specific mechanism. It is currently used for double chins, jawline contouring, puffy and droopy eyes, neck and décolleté lines and skin rejuvenation. HiFU uses sound energy, or ultrasound, which has properties that allow it to bypass the surface of the skin to treat depths not matched by any other non-invasive cosmetic device. HiFU stimulates collagen production in the skin's foundation, resulting in a clinically significant lift of tissue over 2-3 months.
- Microneedling radiofrequency uses fine microneedles to create tiny wounds in the skin to trigger the production of collagen and elastin. The process also uses radiofrequency waves that accelerate the new skin production, boosting the effects of microneedling. This procedure helps reduce fine lines, tighten skin, and reduce pores.
How are in-clinic anti-ageing treatments better than usual over-the-counter (OTC) products that claim to have anti-ageing benefits?
Dr Agarwal: In-clinic treatments are better and more effective than usual OTC products for various reasons. Firstly, they are studied intensively for years with documented results and safety. Secondly, they are able to reach and deliver benefits at a deeper level of the skin, unlike topicals. And, lastly, they can give proven long-term results. For instance, fillers can replenish the volume loss and erase the deeper wrinkles. I compare the topicals and treatments to diet and exercise respectively when it comes to maintaining a healthy, toned body, in simpler terms. You need both to achieve a desired body goal and, similarly, you require acustomised mix of treatments with topical skincare products for your skin goals.
As a dermatologist, what is your take on the increasing inclination towards everything anti-ageing, including in-clinic treatments?
Dr Agarwal: There has been a definite increase in aesthetic procedures as compared to previous years. Zoom calls and increased use of social media platforms have initiated the urge in people to opt for anti-ageing skincare, especially in-clinic treatments. Women are economically empowered and are availing of these treatments uninhibitedly. There is increased awareness and availability of the latest anti-ageing procedures; the number of clinic establishments offering these treatments has increased, so there is easy and quick access to them.
Are people in their 20s more careful of preventative measures for ageing? What do you think has encouraged that?
Dr Agarwal: Yes, I do see an increase in people in their 20s, sometimes even in their early 20s, approaching me for anti-ageing treatments. This is largely due to the increased access to information about skincare for all ages easily. People know about the future impact of the ageing process, the various possibilities of preventing the signs of ageing and also the very ease of procuring these anti-ageing options.
From the influence of the West to the availability of information on social media — what, according to you, has spread more awareness and interest in in-clinic treatments?
Dr Agarwal: Social media platforms definitely have a big hand in this; people in the West have been very candid about sharing the in-clinic treatments without any embarrassment. During the pandemic, there was a wildfire increase in all platforms about skincare treatments, with multiple brands jumping on the bandwagon; the number of social media influencers and YouTubers talking about it also grew exponentially. At times, patients show images/posts/videos of procedures (they found on Instagram) and are interested in getting them for themselves. Additionally, many dermatologists from across the world have joined this journey of education and awareness about treatments on social media, strengthening the correct information dissemination.
According to you, what are the social and cultural impacts of this increased interest? Is it going against the anti-ageist movement in a way? Or is it more liberating?
Dr Agarwal: As a dermatologist, I am excited and positive about the increased interest and awareness, as any step towards improving and maintaining skin health is a good step. It is liberating as, irrespective of age; the power is in your hands. Socially, it is a good step as the barriers to age discrimination will be going down. Culturally, it is a sign of change where age does not define life aspirations. However, I also view it with caution and some trepidation as the flood of anti-ageing can sway people into going overboard, which can have its own repercussions. It is advisable to assimilate the information, verify it with an expert and be not only exuberant but also cautious while applying these anti-ageing approaches daily.
