It’s not uncommon for Indian skin to be susceptible to acne, given the tropical climate that we live in. Excess sebum secretion teamed up with heat, humidity, and pollution makes for the perfect recipe for clogged pores, congestion, and the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and acne. Like most of us, if you’ve been battling acne ever since puberty struck, chances are that you must have burnt your fingers (& face!) while trying out various remedies and ingredients.
Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are two actives that stand out from the rest as potent acne-busting ingredients that target different kinds of acne by offering more than just skin-deep benefits. Choosing one between the two can, however, be perplexing. We reached out to Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad to help us make sense of it all.
.PNG)
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a BHA, short for beta hydroxy acid, that penetrates the pores of the skin and exfoliates them deeply, leaving them unclogged and free from congestion. “It’s a keratolytic agent, which means it helps to loosen and remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and prevent the buildup of oil, dirt and bacteria that can contribute to acne formation,” says Dr Sharad. The oil-soluble ingredient “allows it to penetrate deep into the hair follicles and sebaceous glands, where it helps to break down excess oil (sebum) and other debris that can block the pores,” says the dermatologist.
The antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties of salicylic acid help subside the inflammation, redness, swelling, and discomfort that often accompany acne. “It can also help inhibit the growth of certain bacteria on the skin’s surface, including Propionibacterium acnes, which is commonly associated with acne,” explains Dr Sharad.
Salicylic acid is easily accessible in a myriad of over-the-counter skin care products such as serums, toners, essences, and moisturisers, often paired with healing, enriching and nourishing agents like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides and peptides.
What is benzoyl peroxide?
The benefits of benzoyl peroxide products for acne have been explored more and more in the recent past. With a potent antibacterial and exfoliating profile, benzoyl peroxide “is highly effective in killing the bacteria P. acnes, which is a key contributor to acne development,” says Dr Sharad. “When applied to the skin, the powerful oxidising agent breaks down into benzoic acid and oxygen. The release of oxygen creates an oxygen-rich environment that is toxic to the acne-causing bacteria Propionibacterium acnes. The bacteria cannot survive in the presence of oxygen, leading to their destruction,” she elaborates.
Besides dissipating acne-causing bacteria, benzoyl peroxide also tackles excess sebum production. “It helps regulate sebum production by reducing the activity of the sebaceous glands, which, in turn, helps prevent the pores from becoming clogged with sebum and reduces the occurrence of acne breakouts,” Dr Sharad explains. It also helps to alleviate the redness, swelling and tenderness associated with acne lesions.
Benzoyl peroxide vs salicylic acid for acne
Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are both effective in treating acne, but they have different mechanisms of action and target different aspects of acne, believes Dr Sharad.
While salicylic acid works primarily by exfoliating the skin and unclogging pores, benzoyl peroxide is an oxidising agent that works by killing acne-causing bacteria. “The former penetrates the pores and helps to dissolve the glue-like substance that holds dead skin cells together; the exfoliating action helps to remove dead skin cells, oil, and debris from the pores, preventing clogging and reducing the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads),” explains Dr Sharad, whereas, “by eliminating bacteria, benzoyl peroxide reduces the population that contributes to inflammation and acne formation.”
Salicylic acid primarily targets clogged pores, is effective for treating non-inflammatory acne such as blackheads and whiteheads, and can help prevent new acne lesions from forming. Benzoyl peroxide, on the other hand, primarily targets acne-causing bacteria, inflammation and exfoliation and is effective in treating both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne, proving particularly useful for acne that is characterised by red, inflamed pimples.
What is better for you?
To find your perfect match between the two, factor in some critical aspects such as the type of your acne and the sensitivity of your skin. “If your acne primarily consists of clogged pores and you want to focus on exfoliation and unclogging, salicylic acid may be a good choice. On the other hand, if you have inflammatory acne with red and inflamed pimples, benzoyl peroxide, which targets bacteria and inflammation, may be more suitable,” recommends Dr Sharad. “In some cases, a combination approach using both salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide can be effective. Using them at different times of the day or in different areas of the face can also be an option,” she advises.
According to Dr Sharad, it’s best to consult your dermatologist when choosing between the two to help you evaluate your specific acne condition and provide personalised recommendations. “They can assess your skin type, the severity of acne and any underlying factors to help determine the most suitable treatment option or combination approach for your individual needs,” she concludes.
