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A zit is a zit is a zit? Not quite. The fact is, breakouts come in various forms, and the type of acne you have is closely linked to how it should be treated. You might be tempted to reach for the same spot treatment whenever a new one pops up, but what works for one type of acne may not necessarily make sense for another.
To help make sense of it all, we spoke to Dr. Sravya Tipirneni, Consultant Dermatologist, Cosmetologist & Trichologist at Manipal Hospitals in Bangalore, about the different types of acne, how to tell them apart, what may trigger them and the skincare ingredients and routines that can help. With the help of our expert, we break down five different types of acne—comedonal, inflammatory, hormonal, cystic and fungal—along with their telltale signs, common triggers and the right skincare approach for each.
There are five types of acne covered in this guide: comedonal, inflammatory, hormonal, cystic and fungal acne. They can be distinguished by the appearance, location and symptoms of the breakouts, such as blackheads and whiteheads, red and swollen bumps, deeper jawline breakouts, painful cysts or small, itchy, uniform bumps.
Acne can have different triggers depending on the type. Excess oil and dead skin cells can cause comedonal acne, while trapped C. acnes bacteria can contribute to inflammatory acne. Hormonal fluctuations can trigger hormonal acne, while cystic acne can involve genetics, hormones and deep follicle inflammation. Fungal acne is caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia yeast on the skin.
Treatment depends on the type of acne. Salicylic acid and topical retinoids can help with comedonal acne, while benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide and azelaic acid may help with inflammatory acne. Hormonal acne may require a consistent preventative routine, while cystic acne often needs dermatological treatment. Fungal acne requires an anti-fungal approach.
Hormonal acne typically appears as deeper, tender breakouts concentrated around the jawline, chin and lower cheeks and may flare around menstruation. Fungal acne usually appears as small, uniform, intensely itchy bumps, often on the forehead, chest or back.
You should consider seeing a dermatologist if your acne is deep, painful, persistent or causing scarring. Cystic acne, in particular, often requires prescription treatment, while persistent breakouts that do not improve with an appropriate skincare routine may need professional evaluation.
What it is & how to identify it: Dr. Tipirneni describes comedonal acne as non-inflammatory, surface-level bumps. “They present as open comedones (blackheads) where oxidized melanin turns dark, or closed comedones (whiteheads) which look like small, skin-colored bumps,” she says. One of the easiest ways to identify this type of acne is that the bumps are usually painless and lack redness.
Potential causes: Comedonal acne occurs when excess sebum (oil) and dead skin cells build up and block the hair follicle.
How to treat it: When it comes to treating comedonal acne, consistency is key. Dr. Tipirneni recommends gentle chemical exfoliation with BHAs, such as salicylic acid, to help unclog pores, along with topical retinoids to increase cell turnover.
What it is & how to identify it: Unlike comedonal acne, inflammatory acne is characterised by redness, swelling and tenderness. According to Dr. Tipirneni, it typically presents as papules (small, red, tender bumps) and pustules (bumps topped with white or yellow pus). “Unlike comedonal acne, these breakouts are tender to the touch and are more visibly inflamed,” she says.
Potential causes: This type of acne develops when blocked pores trap C. acnes bacteria inside, triggering an immune response that leads to inflammation and pus.
How to treat it: The focus here is twofold: calming inflammation while targeting bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide can help target and kill bacteria, while niacinamide or azelaic acid can help soothe redness and inflammation. Dr. Tipirneni also advises avoiding physical scrubs entirely when dealing with inflammatory or cystic acne, as they can rupture lesions and potentially spread infection.
What it is & how to identify it: Hormonal acne tends to show up as deeper, more tender breakouts linked to internal hormonal fluctuations. Dr. Tipirneni explains that these breakouts often flare up in a cyclical pattern around menstruation. Their location can also be a useful clue: hormonal acne is usually concentrated on the lower third of the face, particularly the jawline, chin and lower cheeks.
Potential causes: As the name suggests, hormonal acne is linked to fluctuations in androgens (male hormones), which can stimulate the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil. These fluctuations can be triggered by puberty, menstruation, PCOS or stress.
How to treat it: Unlike treating the occasional breakout, hormonal acne calls for a more preventative approach. “Your routine needs to be preventative and consistent throughout the month, not just when a breakout occurs,” says Dr Sravya. Topically, she recommends retinoids such as adapalene and azelaic acid, while stubborn cases may require oral prescriptions such as spironolactone under the guidance of a dermatologist.
What it is & how to identify it: Cystic acne is considered the most severe form of acne and can be particularly painful. “This is the most severe form of acne. It is characterised by deep, painful, pus-filled cysts or nodules rooted beneath the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Tipirneni. It also carries a high risk of scarring. To describe what it feels like, she likens cystic acne to a hard, painful marble sitting deep beneath the skin.
Potential causes: Cystic acne can stem from a combination of factors, including genetic predisposition, severe hormonal imbalances and a deep rupture of the follicle wall beneath the skin.
How to treat it: When it comes to cystic acne, over-the-counter ingredients are rarely enough. While benzoyl peroxide may help with surface inflammation, Dr. Tipirneni notes that, more often than not, cystic acne requires intervention from a dermatologist.
What it is & how to identify it: Despite its name, fungal acne isn't technically acne. Clinically known as Malassezia folliculitis, it presents as very uniform, itchy, small red bumps that often appear in clusters, almost like a rash. The biggest giveaway is the intense itchiness, with these bumps often appearing on the forehead, chest or back.
Potential causes: Fungal acne occurs when there is an overgrowth of the naturally occurring yeast Malassezia on the skin. It can be triggered by hot and humid weather, excessive sweating, tight workout clothing or a compromised skin barrier.
How to treat it: Because fungal acne requires a different approach from other types of breakouts, simplifying your routine is a good place to start. “For fungal acne, you must strip your routine back entirely, eliminating all heavy oils, lipids, and fatty acids from your moisturizers, as these physically "feed" the yeast,” says Dr. Tipirneni. She recommends looking for products with anti-fungal ingredients such as ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione and sulfur.
No matter which type of acne you’re dealing with, certain skincare habits can make breakouts worse. One of the biggest mistakes is doing too much. “Over-washing and over-exfoliating are the most common mistakes; they strip the skin barrier, causing it to overcompensate by producing even more oil,” explains Dr. Tipirneni.
It may also be tempting to skip moisturiser if your skin is oily or acne-prone, but Dr. Tipirneni advises against it. “Even oily, acne-prone skin needs hydration to heal,” she points out. And, however tempting it may be, popping or squeezing a zit is never the answer. “It will worsen any type of acne, driving inflammation deeper, delaying healing, and almost guaranteeing a dark spot or scar.”
What it is & how to identify it: Dr. Tipirneni describes comedonal acne as non-inflammatory, surface-level bumps. “They present as open comedones (blackheads) where oxidized melanin turns dark, or closed comedones (whiteheads) which look like small, skin-colored bumps,” she says. One of the easiest ways to identify this type of acne is that the bumps are usually painless and lack redness.
Potential causes: Comedonal acne occurs when excess sebum (oil) and dead skin cells build up and block the hair follicle.
How to treat it: When it comes to treating comedonal acne, consistency is key. Dr. Tipirneni recommends gentle chemical exfoliation with BHAs, such as salicylic acid, to help unclog pores, along with topical retinoids to increase cell turnover.
What it is & how to identify it: Unlike comedonal acne, inflammatory acne is characterised by redness, swelling and tenderness. According to Dr. Tipirneni, it typically presents as papules (small, red, tender bumps) and pustules (bumps topped with white or yellow pus). “Unlike comedonal acne, these breakouts are tender to the touch and are more visibly inflamed,” she says.
Potential causes: This type of acne develops when blocked pores trap C. acnes bacteria inside, triggering an immune response that leads to inflammation and pus.
How to treat it: The focus here is twofold: calming inflammation while targeting bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide can help target and kill bacteria, while niacinamide or azelaic acid can help soothe redness and inflammation. Dr. Tipirneni also advises avoiding physical scrubs entirely when dealing with inflammatory or cystic acne, as they can rupture lesions and potentially spread infection.
What it is & how to identify it: Hormonal acne tends to show up as deeper, more tender breakouts linked to internal hormonal fluctuations. Dr. Tipirneni explains that these breakouts often flare up in a cyclical pattern around menstruation. Their location can also be a useful clue: hormonal acne is usually concentrated on the lower third of the face, particularly the jawline, chin and lower cheeks.
Potential causes: As the name suggests, hormonal acne is linked to fluctuations in androgens (male hormones), which can stimulate the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil. These fluctuations can be triggered by puberty, menstruation, PCOS or stress.
How to treat it: Unlike treating the occasional breakout, hormonal acne calls for a more preventative approach. “Your routine needs to be preventative and consistent throughout the month, not just when a breakout occurs,” says Dr Sravya. Topically, she recommends retinoids such as adapalene and azelaic acid, while stubborn cases may require oral prescriptions such as spironolactone under the guidance of a dermatologist.
What it is & how to identify it: Cystic acne is considered the most severe form of acne and can be particularly painful. “This is the most severe form of acne. It is characterised by deep, painful, pus-filled cysts or nodules rooted beneath the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Tipirneni. It also carries a high risk of scarring. To describe what it feels like, she likens cystic acne to a hard, painful marble sitting deep beneath the skin.
Potential causes: Cystic acne can stem from a combination of factors, including genetic predisposition, severe hormonal imbalances and a deep rupture of the follicle wall beneath the skin.
How to treat it: When it comes to cystic acne, over-the-counter ingredients are rarely enough. While benzoyl peroxide may help with surface inflammation, Dr. Tipirneni notes that, more often than not, cystic acne requires intervention from a dermatologist.
What it is & how to identify it: Despite its name, fungal acne isn't technically acne. Clinically known as Malassezia folliculitis, it presents as very uniform, itchy, small red bumps that often appear in clusters, almost like a rash. The biggest giveaway is the intense itchiness, with these bumps often appearing on the forehead, chest or back.
Potential causes: Fungal acne occurs when there is an overgrowth of the naturally occurring yeast Malassezia on the skin. It can be triggered by hot and humid weather, excessive sweating, tight workout clothing or a compromised skin barrier.
How to treat it: Because fungal acne requires a different approach from other types of breakouts, simplifying your routine is a good place to start. “For fungal acne, you must strip your routine back entirely, eliminating all heavy oils, lipids, and fatty acids from your moisturizers, as these physically "feed" the yeast,” says Dr. Tipirneni. She recommends looking for products with anti-fungal ingredients such as ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione and sulfur.
No matter which type of acne you’re dealing with, certain skincare habits can make breakouts worse. One of the biggest mistakes is doing too much. “Over-washing and over-exfoliating are the most common mistakes; they strip the skin barrier, causing it to overcompensate by producing even more oil,” explains Dr. Tipirneni.
It may also be tempting to skip moisturiser if your skin is oily or acne-prone, but Dr. Tipirneni advises against it. “Even oily, acne-prone skin needs hydration to heal,” she points out. And, however tempting it may be, popping or squeezing a zit is never the answer. “It will worsen any type of acne, driving inflammation deeper, delaying healing, and almost guaranteeing a dark spot or scar.”
There are five types of acne covered in this guide: comedonal, inflammatory, hormonal, cystic and fungal acne. They can be distinguished by the appearance, location and symptoms of the breakouts, such as blackheads and whiteheads, red and swollen bumps, deeper jawline breakouts, painful cysts or small, itchy, uniform bumps.
Acne can have different triggers depending on the type. Excess oil and dead skin cells can cause comedonal acne, while trapped C. acnes bacteria can contribute to inflammatory acne. Hormonal fluctuations can trigger hormonal acne, while cystic acne can involve genetics, hormones and deep follicle inflammation. Fungal acne is caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia yeast on the skin.
Treatment depends on the type of acne. Salicylic acid and topical retinoids can help with comedonal acne, while benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide and azelaic acid may help with inflammatory acne. Hormonal acne may require a consistent preventative routine, while cystic acne often needs dermatological treatment. Fungal acne requires an anti-fungal approach.
Hormonal acne typically appears as deeper, tender breakouts concentrated around the jawline, chin and lower cheeks and may flare around menstruation. Fungal acne usually appears as small, uniform, intensely itchy bumps, often on the forehead, chest or back.
You should consider seeing a dermatologist if your acne is deep, painful, persistent or causing scarring. Cystic acne, in particular, often requires prescription treatment, while persistent breakouts that do not improve with an appropriate skincare routine may need professional evaluation.
There are five types of acne covered in this guide: comedonal, inflammatory, hormonal, cystic and fungal acne. They can be distinguished by the appearance, location and symptoms of the breakouts, such as blackheads and whiteheads, red and swollen bumps, deeper jawline breakouts, painful cysts or small, itchy, uniform bumps.
Acne can have different triggers depending on the type. Excess oil and dead skin cells can cause comedonal acne, while trapped C. acnes bacteria can contribute to inflammatory acne. Hormonal fluctuations can trigger hormonal acne, while cystic acne can involve genetics, hormones and deep follicle inflammation. Fungal acne is caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia yeast on the skin.
Treatment depends on the type of acne. Salicylic acid and topical retinoids can help with comedonal acne, while benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide and azelaic acid may help with inflammatory acne. Hormonal acne may require a consistent preventative routine, while cystic acne often needs dermatological treatment. Fungal acne requires an anti-fungal approach.
Hormonal acne typically appears as deeper, tender breakouts concentrated around the jawline, chin and lower cheeks and may flare around menstruation. Fungal acne usually appears as small, uniform, intensely itchy bumps, often on the forehead, chest or back.
You should consider seeing a dermatologist if your acne is deep, painful, persistent or causing scarring. Cystic acne, in particular, often requires prescription treatment, while persistent breakouts that do not improve with an appropriate skincare routine may need professional evaluation.
What it is & how to identify it: Dr. Tipirneni describes comedonal acne as non-inflammatory, surface-level bumps. “They present as open comedones (blackheads) where oxidized melanin turns dark, or closed comedones (whiteheads) which look like small, skin-colored bumps,” she says. One of the easiest ways to identify this type of acne is that the bumps are usually painless and lack redness.
Potential causes: Comedonal acne occurs when excess sebum (oil) and dead skin cells build up and block the hair follicle.
How to treat it: When it comes to treating comedonal acne, consistency is key. Dr. Tipirneni recommends gentle chemical exfoliation with BHAs, such as salicylic acid, to help unclog pores, along with topical retinoids to increase cell turnover.
What it is & how to identify it: Unlike comedonal acne, inflammatory acne is characterised by redness, swelling and tenderness. According to Dr. Tipirneni, it typically presents as papules (small, red, tender bumps) and pustules (bumps topped with white or yellow pus). “Unlike comedonal acne, these breakouts are tender to the touch and are more visibly inflamed,” she says.
Potential causes: This type of acne develops when blocked pores trap C. acnes bacteria inside, triggering an immune response that leads to inflammation and pus.
How to treat it: The focus here is twofold: calming inflammation while targeting bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide can help target and kill bacteria, while niacinamide or azelaic acid can help soothe redness and inflammation. Dr. Tipirneni also advises avoiding physical scrubs entirely when dealing with inflammatory or cystic acne, as they can rupture lesions and potentially spread infection.
What it is & how to identify it: Hormonal acne tends to show up as deeper, more tender breakouts linked to internal hormonal fluctuations. Dr. Tipirneni explains that these breakouts often flare up in a cyclical pattern around menstruation. Their location can also be a useful clue: hormonal acne is usually concentrated on the lower third of the face, particularly the jawline, chin and lower cheeks.
Potential causes: As the name suggests, hormonal acne is linked to fluctuations in androgens (male hormones), which can stimulate the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil. These fluctuations can be triggered by puberty, menstruation, PCOS or stress.
How to treat it: Unlike treating the occasional breakout, hormonal acne calls for a more preventative approach. “Your routine needs to be preventative and consistent throughout the month, not just when a breakout occurs,” says Dr Sravya. Topically, she recommends retinoids such as adapalene and azelaic acid, while stubborn cases may require oral prescriptions such as spironolactone under the guidance of a dermatologist.
What it is & how to identify it: Cystic acne is considered the most severe form of acne and can be particularly painful. “This is the most severe form of acne. It is characterised by deep, painful, pus-filled cysts or nodules rooted beneath the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Tipirneni. It also carries a high risk of scarring. To describe what it feels like, she likens cystic acne to a hard, painful marble sitting deep beneath the skin.
Potential causes: Cystic acne can stem from a combination of factors, including genetic predisposition, severe hormonal imbalances and a deep rupture of the follicle wall beneath the skin.
How to treat it: When it comes to cystic acne, over-the-counter ingredients are rarely enough. While benzoyl peroxide may help with surface inflammation, Dr. Tipirneni notes that, more often than not, cystic acne requires intervention from a dermatologist.
What it is & how to identify it: Despite its name, fungal acne isn't technically acne. Clinically known as Malassezia folliculitis, it presents as very uniform, itchy, small red bumps that often appear in clusters, almost like a rash. The biggest giveaway is the intense itchiness, with these bumps often appearing on the forehead, chest or back.
Potential causes: Fungal acne occurs when there is an overgrowth of the naturally occurring yeast Malassezia on the skin. It can be triggered by hot and humid weather, excessive sweating, tight workout clothing or a compromised skin barrier.
How to treat it: Because fungal acne requires a different approach from other types of breakouts, simplifying your routine is a good place to start. “For fungal acne, you must strip your routine back entirely, eliminating all heavy oils, lipids, and fatty acids from your moisturizers, as these physically "feed" the yeast,” says Dr. Tipirneni. She recommends looking for products with anti-fungal ingredients such as ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione and sulfur.
No matter which type of acne you’re dealing with, certain skincare habits can make breakouts worse. One of the biggest mistakes is doing too much. “Over-washing and over-exfoliating are the most common mistakes; they strip the skin barrier, causing it to overcompensate by producing even more oil,” explains Dr. Tipirneni.
It may also be tempting to skip moisturiser if your skin is oily or acne-prone, but Dr. Tipirneni advises against it. “Even oily, acne-prone skin needs hydration to heal,” she points out. And, however tempting it may be, popping or squeezing a zit is never the answer. “It will worsen any type of acne, driving inflammation deeper, delaying healing, and almost guaranteeing a dark spot or scar.”
There are five types of acne covered in this guide: comedonal, inflammatory, hormonal, cystic and fungal acne. They can be distinguished by the appearance, location and symptoms of the breakouts, such as blackheads and whiteheads, red and swollen bumps, deeper jawline breakouts, painful cysts or small, itchy, uniform bumps.
Acne can have different triggers depending on the type. Excess oil and dead skin cells can cause comedonal acne, while trapped C. acnes bacteria can contribute to inflammatory acne. Hormonal fluctuations can trigger hormonal acne, while cystic acne can involve genetics, hormones and deep follicle inflammation. Fungal acne is caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia yeast on the skin.
Treatment depends on the type of acne. Salicylic acid and topical retinoids can help with comedonal acne, while benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide and azelaic acid may help with inflammatory acne. Hormonal acne may require a consistent preventative routine, while cystic acne often needs dermatological treatment. Fungal acne requires an anti-fungal approach.
Hormonal acne typically appears as deeper, tender breakouts concentrated around the jawline, chin and lower cheeks and may flare around menstruation. Fungal acne usually appears as small, uniform, intensely itchy bumps, often on the forehead, chest or back.
You should consider seeing a dermatologist if your acne is deep, painful, persistent or causing scarring. Cystic acne, in particular, often requires prescription treatment, while persistent breakouts that do not improve with an appropriate skincare routine may need professional evaluation.
