You might know your AHAs from your BHAs, and you might have managed to wrap your tongue around the tricky pronunciation of hyaluronic acid, but you, and your skincare routine, have likely been sleeping on the benefits of mandelic acid. This alpha hydroxy acid might be heaven-sent for gentle exfoliation, but it has been playing the long game. While silently present and working its magic in liquid exfoliants and serums for years, mandelic acid is finally making its way to the mainstream spotlight as a hero ingredient to look out for. Here’s what Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, wants you to take note of when it comes to the benefits of mandelic acid.
What is mandelic acid?
“Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that helps loosen the glue that binds the dead cells of the skin’s upper layer, thereby shedding them,” explains Dr Agarwal. What does this mean for dull and fatigued skin? Named after the German word for almonds, ‘mandel’, this humble acid could be your ticket to skin-soothing exfoliation that has the last word on acne, dullness and dead skin cells.
What is mandelic acid used for in a skincare routine?
Extracted or manufactured chemically from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is a gentle alpha hydroxy acid that has a large molecule size as compared to other AHAs. “This means that it is released slowly into the skin and at a more superficial level for targeting skin concerns for a longer period of time without causing irritation,” she shares.
Does your skin need mandelic acid?
While the skincare world latches onto a new miracle cure-all every fortnight, it helps to factor in your skin’s specific needs and requirements before overhauling your entire routine. The case for using mandelic acid for skin is clear. “If you have dry and sensitive skin that requires chemical exfoliation or your skin has been feeling dull and fatigued, mandelic acid will serve as a worthy addition to your routine. Those with oily, acne-prone skin can also rely on it for treating blemishes,” says the Mumbai-based dermatologist.
Who should avoid mandelic acid?
Those with an almond allergy will want to steer clear of this acid. “It is also advisable to avoid teaming it with your everyday retinol as well as other AHAs, as this concoction can have the potential to disrupt the skin barrier,” cautions Dr Agarwal. As with any active ingredient, a patch test will help you decide whether your face is ready to commit to a more dedicated routine of mandelic acid.
While this ingredient can commonly be found lurking in chemical peels at your dermatologist’s office, you can also add it to your routine with a host of over-the-counter skincare products.
From foaming cleansers to anti-ageing serums, here are the mandelic acid formulas topping our shopping lists:
- Deconstruct 3% Niacinamide + 5% Mandelic Acid + 0.5% Cysteine Complex Brightening Body Serum
- Earth Rhythm 10% Mandelic Acid + Hyaluronic Acid Intensive Renewal Serum
- La Cremerie Brightening Anti-Age Face Serum
- Fixderma Mandefix Foaming Face Cleanser
For more information about skincare ingredients, formulations, trendy treatments and more, follow to Dr Madhuri Agarwal on her journey to spread skincare education.
