Do you have moments when your vanity starts to look better stocked than a beauty store? When your skin care routine lasts longer than your commute? And your notes app is crowded with multiple beauty wishlists? Skincare can be an act of self-care for some but for others it could become a complicated landscape to navigate. Serums, moisturisers, toners, face oils – there is a universe of products that all promise plump, glowing skin. They all may have the same goal, but their ways of working on your skin are different. This may lead to a plethora of questions. Are moisturisers and serums the same? Can I skip face oil and use just a moisturiser? Are serums and face oils the same? Since face oils and serums are similar in texture, it can be confusing to differentiate and choose between the two. We’re here to help you figure which one is the best for you and – spoiler alert – they both might be fantastic for your skin type.
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What’s the difference between face oils and serums?
“Serums have a thin, watery consistency and are formulated with a high concentration of active ingredients to serve a wide range of skin concerns,” explains dermatologist Dr Harshna Bijlani, medical head, The Ageless Clinic. “Face oils are emollient-rich and give deep nourishment; they are oil-based liquids that improve the skin’s natural moisture balance. As the serum has smaller molecules, it penetrates deep beneath the layers of the skin, whereas the oil has larger molecules that reach the outermost layer of the skin. Technically, the serum is absorbed more than oils.”
What are the benefits of face serums?
Serums are efficient delivery vehicles for a host of actives – you can choose from vitamin C serums, hyaluronic acid serums, retinol serums, and those powered with niacinamides. Their versatility makes them capable of targeting various different skin concerns. “Serums, because of their light consistency and concentrated nature, help ingredients penetrate quickly and easily,” says Dr Bijlani. “They are therefore more suitable for targeted concerns like dullness, signs of ageing, fine lines, pigmentation and dark spots.”
Their ability to multi-task has both advantages and disadvantages. “Serums contain up to 70 per cent active ingredients, which make them highly potent and result-oriented, hence helping to enhance an internal glow,” explains Dr Bijlani. On the flip side, this is also why they should be eased into your skincare routine with caution. Some serums are formulated with AHAs and, because of the drying nature of their peeling functionality, aren’t recommended for those with dry skin. Even serums charged with retinol tend to dry out the skin and shouldn’t be used for those looking for hydration.
How do facial oils work?
Face oils act as emollients, trapping in water and making the skin plump and firm. A face oil benefits dry, dehydrated skin by keeping it nourished for long hours. “Facial oils help to balance skin by mimicking the skin’s natural oil barrier and help address skin concerns like dryness and dullness. Also, oils like rosehip and vitamin E are fantastic nourishers,” adds Dr Bijlani.
Face oils vs serums
Dr Bijlani emphasises that skincare is a highly personalised journey. “Ideally, choosing the right skincare products depends on your specific concerns, your skin type and your preference.”
Serums are meant to address issues like pigmentation, dullness, dark spots, sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles and signs of ageing—so you can choose one to suit almost any skin type or concern. Since the actives in the serum vary, they can be multifaceted in their effects, too. “For example, someone in their 20s can use a vitamin C serum, and someone in their 70s can use one with peptides and ceramides,” says Dr Bijlani.
Facial oils are less versatile, and may not be suitable for those with oily, acne-prone skin. “Facial oils nourish and provide a natural glow, so they’re most suited for normal, dry and dehydrated skin,” she says. “I recommend using a facial oil as a cleanser and hydrator in your skin routine because it acts as an occlusive, trapping in moisture and giving you healthy-looking skin.”
When and how to use face serums and oils
“Serum must always be the product that goes on first, right after cleansing and exfoliating. Wait for a minute or two after you apply your serum before the next layer. Your face oil seals in the ingredients—so it goes on last,” advises Dr Bijlani. Both serums and face oils work very well with a moisturiser, which could come in between the serum and the oil. For a morning skincare routine, sunscreen goes on after the oil.
A basic rule to follow is to remember that the heaviest product always goes on last.
Cover Image : Instagram/@mira.kapoor
